The day of days! A spectacular show of power and grace by the ocean. The forecast looked good, but it’s usually a toss up when the location is so remote that @surfline gives you a regional forecast instead of a spot forecast. Light offshores helped shape these beauties as they rolled in. The swell lines were visible over two minutes out, just massive walls of water marching in. From the surface perspective it was impressive, but seeing it from the air was another story. I flew my @djiglobal #Inspire2 out—way out—and waited for these magical moments to arrive. Just perfect, an totally empty. I’m not sure what was better, shooting these big beauties or riding them the next day. Deep blue giants, just perfect. #surf#surfing#surfer#surferphotos#aerial#drone#djiinspire#madeofocean#sea#waves#water#aloha
Thinking of this guy today, on to another heat in the @appworldtour event in New York today. We’ve had so many conversations trying to tackle approaching failure and success in our lives, whether it’s pro surfing in his case or pro photography in mine. In the end it’s about being there for your closest friends every time. I knew Sean before he knew me, seeing him surfing some epic waves on magazine covers when I was younger got my so hyped. You’re a damn good surfer @seanpoynter but you’re an even better friend and human. PS I’m wearing a T-shirt as I post this with a drawing of Sean ripping a wave to shreds. Damn cool
There’s nothing quite like the feeling of flying, @loukapitot knows that well. That jump and twist. The way the water streams perfectly off the board and into blinding sunlight. It’s a vision and a feeling, magical. A surreal moment shot with the help of @aquatech_imagingsolutions Delphin D4 housing. @redbull @corekites #kitesurfing#kiteboarding#ocean#aquatech_imagingsolutions
Two years ago, I was totally unable to go in the water or even think about surfing. My cousin had passed away in the ocean and I was too shocked to go back. Without water my life didn’t exist, and I hardly existed, literally. I was blessed to have my family, friends and a special guide that brought meditation into my life. It took many, many long months—years—but man, look at my life now. Filled with joy, an appreciation for everything I didn’t know was possible. Happiness beyond compare. And the water, more than ever. And recently, foiling, a challenge I didn’t think I’d have the opportunity to face when I first watched @kai_lenny put it out to the world a few years ago. Now it feels like my whole life has been steered toward learning this magical dark art, this new face of surfing. I’m so committed and thankful. Thank you @cyclonesurfboards for the beautiful custom board, and my closest friend @seanpoynter for being there with me the first time I tried foiling. It’s been epic and there’s going to be some very cool content based around foiling coming up. A new direction, all positive. Love life, stay stoked. Thank you for the photo @ericchaang. He’s single ladies, hit him up 😉🤙 #foiling#surfing#surf#surffoiling#california @patagonia_surf @loveavasol
Some exciting news, this shot from my set with @honoluablomfield is going to appear in print alongside a story on her in the coming months @oneillwomens / shot with Nikon Delphin housing by @aquatech_imagingsolutions
Finding new roads is about taking a moment to watch it all at the end of the day. Photo taken by my mom who was with me for this very dusty and bumpy three days 🙅♂️ @patagonia @patagonia_surf @toyotausa @toyotasocal
Man, what a damn good summer this was. As promised I milked it for all it was worth, from flying out the day spring term ended to wrapping up the last evening tonight with an epic 1200 mile road/offroad trip, which I was super stoked to share with my mom (who also took this sweet photo 🔥) We drove some amazing trails and slept under some ridiculous stars in 100 degree Death Valley midnight heat, a new experience for me. Started and am still wrapping up several career highlight projects 🙏 I was blessed to be given the opportunity once again to spend time in the water and in the mountains, learning to surf foil, actually I am about to get my custom board from @cyclonesurfboards 🤤 I met some incredible people varying from crazy to amazing, shoutout to my Russians in the house, you know who you are 😉😂 And I definitely, definitely love Tacomas, the last few days confirmed that.