'Some of God's people are white, some black, some brown, some yellow. God didn't intend all people to be alike, not even in families. But people were intended to live in harmony, as when the strings of the ukulele blend. There is a tremendous job ahead to bring all people in tune with God. Then they will be in tune with each other.'' - Reverend Abraham Akaka. The brother of former U.S. Senator Daniel Akaka, Reverend Akaka led Kawaiahao Church for 28 years. Akaka also presided over Duke Kahanamoku's funeral service in 1968. 📷 by Clarence 'Mac' Maki #print#fallissue#blackandwhite#surf#hawaii#waikiki#clarencemaki#trimthe7seas#agelesssea
If you have surfed, you will know the meaning of heroism and helplessness, exultation and fear, boundless energy and utter fatigue, the motives and horizon's of the surfer's world. - John M Kelly 📷 by Daniel Russo @_danielrusso_ #hawaii#pipeline#surf#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
He did what he always did on this inside section. He waited for the lip to nearly clock him, and with a matador’s flourish, straightened out. Only this time it did clock him, square on the right side of his head, with brutal force. His face slapped the water. His left ear seemed to tear open, a deafening hum. The power was preternatural; it belonged to Pipeline, Mavericks. The turbulence rag-dolled him, pushed him deeper and deeper. Where was the bottom? Where was the surface? He tumbled and grasped and needed desperately to breathe. He felt himself losing consciousness, saw powdery white light, let go.
Then he broke the surface, gasped for air.
He coughed. Spume blinded and burned. His ear rang. His head swayed. He waved his arms, looked for fellow surfers, but there was no one. He turned around and there was another wave, about to collapse on his head. He lunged for his board, death- gripped the rails, bounced shorewards. Whitewater deposited him on the sand. For a long while he just lay there lifeless. “This feeling is never to be forgotten,” says Westerly. “Peter felt terribly disoriented, his equilibrium was shot, blood was pouring out of his ears, he thought he was dead.” This accident, which left Peter with a concussion and a perforated ear drum, "pretty much fried his brain." Westerly says that there had been many instances where he'd felt like he was in the wrong body, but this loosened something, something irreversible. Peter started staying up into the wee hours, listening to classical music, feeling things shift inside him. One night he watched a documentary about albatrosses. He was transfixed, particularly by the part about the lone albatross out at sea for days, away from its family.
From Jamie Brisick's 'Becoming Westerly - Surf Champion Peter Drouyn's Transformation into Westerly Windina' @jamiebrisick 📷 by Andrew Kidman, the creator of Litmus and Glass Love, two of my favorite surf films. @andrewkidman #getthisbook#print#surf#fallissue#greatbook#hawaii#australia#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
It wasn’t epic Burleigh but it was pretty damn good, especially considering there were only twenty or so guys out. Peter slipped into his rhythm the way he always did. He waited for sets, read the angle and the taper and what he liked to think of as the wave’s visage, and picked the ones that seemed to call out to him. He drew his trademark lines, off the bottom and off the top, vertical bashes in the soft sections, lateral swooping arcs in the zippy bits, power surfing, albeit at a middle-aged tempo.
Surfing at age fifty-two was something he was still trying to work out. Yes, it was humbling; the weaker paddling arms, the slower reflexes, the stuttering cutbacks, the gap between how he dreamed of riding waves and how he actually rode them widening by the year. A single hour in the surf exhausted him, demanded afternoon naps—when did that start? Then there were the young blokes who literally paddled circles around him, flew above the lip. Clearly they had no sense of history.
But there was a chop wood/carry water simplicity to surfing that put things in perspective. He did some of his best thinking in the water. Something about the vastness, the exultant blue, the impregnable horizon. And the afterglow, those little cells and fibers and nerve endings so grateful for their daily fix. His life was a towering, teetering house of cards and at the bottom, wedged just so, was surfing.
Peter caught a slightly overhead wave from way out the back. It went fat as it rounded the cove. He kickstalled at the top, skittered and zagged, dropped to the bottom and swooped. He climbed the gentle crumble of lip, floated over it, then darted off the bottom and across the steepening face. But the wave sectioned fast, too fast. He kicked out over the back.
From 'Becoming Westerly: Surf Champion Peter Drouyn's Transformation into Westerly Windina' by Jamie Brisick @jamiebrisick excerpted in the fall issue of @trimhawaii out now. #surf#greatbook#fallissue#westerlywindina#print#magazine#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#jamiebrisick#peterdrouyn
1901 was a seminal year in both Hawaii and the United Kingdom. The first hotel on Waikiki Beach, the Moana Hotel, had its Grand Opening. That same year, Queen Victoria ended her sixty-three year reign, passing away at the age of 82. Her Majesty Alexandrina Victoria von Wettin, Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and Empress of India was a prude. Her modest hand extended to every facet of the British Empire – and in effect, the civilized world. Queen Victoria dictated and controlled fashion. And the fashion for any kind of bathing, from Roman baths or trips to the ocean, for men and women was wool. Itchy, scratchy wool that soaked up seven times its weight in water. Wool might have been comfortable along the shores of Brighton or Devon in cold England. Yet Queen Victoria’s fashion reign extended even to Hawaii, where noble savages set aside their loincloths and malo, and strapped on the one-piece wool tanksuits – grimacing.
From 'Before Boardshorts' by Ben Marcus. Photo courtesy of Randy Hild's archive @randysurforama Read the article in our fall issue, out Friday. #surf#fashion#wool#waikiki#hawaii#magazine#longliveprint#agelesssea#trimhawaii#trimthe7seas#history#legends
After surfing for seven years, Mac decided he wanted to be a surf photographer. At that time surfing photos were taken by people who stood on the beach or who went into the surf seated in an outrigger canoe, but Mac wanted to try something different. He wanted to be an in-water surf photographer. He had watched several other guys in Waikiki try this new approach, in-water surf photography, where they sat on a surfboard holding a camera. He decided he would try it, too. “The first guy I ever saw with a camera on a board was a Chinese guy,” Mac said. “He had a wooden box to protect it. He’d take a quick picture, put the camera in the box, and slam the lid down when a wave came. He didn’t last too long as a surf photographer. A Chinese-Hawaiian guy named Nip Akona came after him. Nip made a plastic waterproof case for his camera, and he was more successful. About 1950 I decided to try it myself. A friend of mine, Frank Minn, had a plastic company, so I designed a box and asked him to make it. Then I added the attachments to press the shutter and wind the film. I put rubber molding inside the case to make it watertight and four suction cups on the bottom so I could stick the case to my board while I paddled. I started working for Sally Hale who ran the Outrigger Beach Service, taking pictures of beginning surfers, and I found that I loved to take surfing pictures.” from our fall issue, Clarence 'Mac' Maki by John Clark, out next week. #print#magazine#fallissue#surf#photography#beforeGoPro#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#aloha#film
To know Makaha is to know Buffalo. Back in the late forties and early fifties, the North Shore wasn’t the destination for big surf. Makaha was the place where town surfers would go to ride big waves. In the late fifties as a young boy, I remember first venturing to the Makaha International Surfing Championships. At that time, the Makaha contest was the contest. The winner of the Makaha contest was world champion. As a young boy I can remember this handsome Hawaiian riding the waves. I knew right away he was what would now be called a waterman. His name was Buffalo Keaulana. He bodysurfed, he board surfed and he rode the big point waves when they were breaking. Buffalo owned Makaha. 📷 Steve Russell
From our fall issue 'My Friend Buffalo' by Fred Hemmings, out next week. #hawaii#aloha#surf#print#magazine#longliveprint#fredhemmings#makaha#buffalokeaulana#friends#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#stoked#trimhawaii
Clarence Maki's legendary photograph of Buffalo Keaulana graces the cover of our fall issue, out next week. John Clark, the author of Hawaiian Surfing, writes about his late friend Clarence 'Mac' Maki. 1968 World Champion Fred Hemmings tells stories about his friend Buffalo Keaulana. Ben Marcus goes into the history of the wool tanksuit. We excerpt Jamie Brisick's fantastic new book 'Becoming Westerly'. And featuring photography from Daniel Russo. @_danielrusso_ @jamiebrisick @surfingheritage @surf_garage @honolulumuseum @morningglasscoffee @pukapukamaui @alohaexchange #magazine#print#blackandwhite#surf#hawaii#longliveprint#trim#trimhawaii#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
As a young boy I remember a rugged looking Hawaiian named “Buffalo” riding the waves. He bodysurfed, he board surfed and he rode the point waves when they were big enough to break. Buffalo Keaulana was also a superb spear fisherman and diver—he owned Makaha. In 1965, Hawai’i surfing leaders, led by the most respected Wally Froiseth, selected a team to go to the inaugural World Surfing Championship in Peru. Buffalo and I were teammates. We shared a room in an old hotel named Leuror, located in a sleepy neighborhood on the coast of Lima called Miraflores. The contest was held at large surf in Punta Rocas. The wave at Punta Rocas is a point surf on the edge of Punta Hermosa Bay down the coast from Lima. It’s a large peak that forms into a hot right slide much like Sunset Beach, and there are long gentler lefts that peel into the bay. During the competition, Buffalo caught a very large wave. He rode the left slide all the way around the side of the point into the bay, where the judges couldn’t even see him. Laughingly, I asked him later, “Eh, how come you rode all the way into the bay? The judges couldn’t see you.” Buffalo responded, “It was a good wave.” It was a simple answer that explained his priorities. - Fred Hemmings "My Friend Buffalo" 📷 by Dick Metz courtesy of SHACC @surfingheritage #trim#surf#buffalokeaulana#fredhemmings#legends#makaha#hawaii#film#blackandwhite#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#alohasunday
Clarence 'Mac' Maki was born in 1924 in Kilauea on Kauai, where his dad worked for the sugar plantation. Both of his parents were issei from Kumamoto prefecture, his father having arriving first, followed by his mother, a picture bride. His parents passed away while he was in his early teens, so he moved to Honolulu in 1939 to live with an older sister. I asked him if he learned to surf on Kauai, but he said that he never surfed until he came to Oahu. “I started in 1943,” he told me. “I don’t know what made me want to go surfing, but I had a boat builder at Kewalo Basin make me a 12’ hollow board. I took it to Waikiki, paddled out to Canoes, and just watched what the other surfers were doing.” Mac didn’t know it then, but he was among the first Japanese surfers in Hawaii. While first generation issei parents were too busy working to support their families, their second-generation nisei children, like Mac, had time to go to the beach. They were probably some of the first Asian surfers in the world. - John Clark #fallissue#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#hawaii#surf 📷 by Clarence Maki
Although Clarence 'Mac' Maki wasn’t the first in-water surf photographer in Hawaii, he was the first of Japanese ancestry and certainly one of the most successful. For 55 years he photographed tourists, beachboys, celebrities, family, friends, and everyone he taught how to surf. As he continued to develop his own photos, he developed a style of cropping that is still unique today. Mac enlarged his photos and turned them into close-ups. His prints invariably showcase the surfer in the shot, often to the exclusion of almost everything else in the background. He cropped his photos to highlight the person and the range of emotions that surfing generates. - John Clark #fallissue#magazine#blackandwhite#film#clarencemaki#nofilter#aloha#canoes or #bowls#waikiki#surf#hawaii#agelesssea#longliveprint#trimthe7seas
Thank you to everyone that came out on Sunday night for the showing of SURF TOWN at the @honolulumuseum Todd @pinderhi and myself are very grateful for the support and aloha! @onetoots @karubekyosuke @kkandmc #agelesssea#hawaii#surf#trimthe7seas
Did we mention that we will be doing a Lucky Number Draw for the Surf Town surfboard at the July 19th premiere? $5 for one ticket, $20 for 6 tickets. Who is feeling lucky to win a one of a kind Todd Pinder surfboard? Proceeds are being donated to @honolulumuseum Soundshop Music Program. @pinderhi @onetoots #surfboard#hawaii#surftown#aloha#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
"Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at it's very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life." Matt Watshaw 📷 by Thomas Green @thomas_henry_green #print#magazine#summerissue#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
One of the most significant features we notice in the practice of surfing, and in fact all the wave sliding arts as they are studied in Hawaii, is that they are not intended for utilitarian purposes only or for purely aesthetic enjoyments, but are meant to train the mind; indeed, to bring it into contact with the ultimate reality. @onetoots @pinderhi #surf#hawaii#ultimatereality#waikiki#trimthe7seas#agelesssea
Before the introduction of horses, the most convenient way to travel was not by foot but by canoe if one had to go around an island. But after the advent of horses, crossing an island became much more convenient and quick by horseback, thus turning horse riding into a practical and popular activity for the Hawaiians. “The natives took to horseback riding with great facility and it is true that as the horses became cheap and everyone had his horse, the people gave up surf riding, as though their idea was to have rapid progress and they abandoned the older method for the newer one. The sport of surf riding was even disappearing when I returned, though some of the outlying islands had a great deal of it.” - Reverend Sereno Bishop - 1853 #surfculture#surf#history#magazine#print#hawaii#waikiki#trimthe7seas#agelesssea Illustrator : F. Howard
Nearly every surf book, essay, and documentary would have you believe that he‘e nalu nearly disappeared from Hawaii by the end of the 19th century. This disappearance is often attributed to the Calvinist missionaries, who apparently banned surfing a few years after they arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in 1820. This has been presented as an unequivocal truth from surfing’s historians, writers and filmmakers for the past 50 years. As such, nearly every surfer believes this to be gospel in the lore of surf history.
Unfortunately, this accepted truth is not fully accurate. History is never that simple. Nor is history that black and white. In fact, history contains many shades of grey. Just as Christopher Columbus did not discover America, and just as James Cook did not discover Hawaii, the missionaries did not nearly kill surfing after they arrived in the early 19th century. - from 'Calvinists, Germs, Wars, Sandalwood, and Horses' from our summer issue, out now. Illustration : Emile Bayard
Article : Jeremy Lemarie @surfresearches #history#surf#surfculture#hawaii#summer#print#magazine#instagood#trimthe7seas#agelesssea#waikiki#honolulu