"DE LA MODE ET DES LETTRES, DU XVIIIe SIECLE A NOS JOURS". Catalogue réalisé par Madeleine DELPIERRE & Guillaume GARNIER. Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris. 1984. in-8, dos droit, couverture souple cartonnée photo. 126 pages. Texte en français illustré de nombreuses reproductions photographiques noir & blanc, in-texte et hors texte. Ouvrage réalisé dans le cadre de l'exposition éponyme au Musée de la Mode et du Costume de Paris, Palais Galliera, du 07 Décembre 1984 au 14 Avril 1985. "...Vêtements et modes sont en effet si intimement liés à la vie humaine que tout homme ou femme de lettres, prenant la plume par métier ou simple plaisir, finit un jour ou l'autre par en traiter. Le propos peut différer selon le genre adopté. L'épistolier, le chroniqueur, le mémorialiste, qui veulent renseigner leurs contemporains ou les générations futures, seront enclins aux descriptions précises. Le moraliste, qu'il fustige les extravagances avec humour ou sévérité, s'élèvera à des conclusions plus philosophiques. Le poète, le dramaturge, le romancier, cherchant à exprimer une émotion, créer un atmosphère ou typer un personnage, ne retiendront bien souvent qu'un détail, mais qu'ils jugeront essentiel. Cependant tous, lorsqu'ils puisent leur inspiration et leurs informations dans le monde qui les entoure, font œuvre de témoins. La littérature, tout autant que portraits, gravures et dessins de mode, inventaires de garde-robe ou compte de couturiers, devient alors l'une des sources, et combien vivante, de l'histoire du costume..." #DeLaModeEtDesLettres#exposition#exhibition#catalogue#1984#MuseeDeLaModeEtDuCostume#Palais Galliera #mode#fashion#HistoireDeLaMode#HistoryOfFashion#RobeALaFrancaise#1778#MadameDeGenlis
Today I will tell you something more about this #stomacher . #Embroidery is one of my favourite #artistic activity since I had a practice in magazin of antique fabrics and #costumes in Warsaw National Museum 7 years ago. I learned historical techniques of embroidery by copying original motifs from antique costumes from this collection. During the following yars I became a teacher of historical embroidery, I developed my skils and knowledge, and met many interesting people. I have also an expirience as a conservator of antique embroidery on the vestments from #17th and #18th century. Now I'm using my expirience in my work in Atelier Saint-Honre. I #design by myself all of my embroidery works for me and for my clients. I care very much that my designs are original and also it looks exactly the same as in the era. I use always traditional techniques and tools. Everything is made by hand with antique #silk threads, #metallic#threads , #bullions , natural #pearls and #sequins . I love the #pathina and imperfections of old materials. For this stomacher I made a design in late #rococo and early #csassicistic style of #1770s - #1780s , when the most magnigficent embroidery was decorated male habit a la francaise, and it was an inspiration for ladys garments. I used three kind of antique silver threads in various shades, four sizes of metallic, pathina sequins, four colors of antique silk threads, and 100 years old #silver#lace for decorate the edges.
I found my robe a la francaise inspiration at the the @baltimoremuseumofart! I always knew it would he green, and so when I saw this lovely portrait of Mrs. Charles Tudway I knew I’d found my gown. I love that she’s an older woman holding a shuttle and thread. She’s dressed beautifully, but is also incredibly creative - which is exactly what I want to be when I’m her age ❤️ Now to hunt down the right fabric.
Artist: Thomas Gainsborough.
“Receipt to Make a Woman
A Paeon to the Mantua-makers
A man is only as good as his tailor -but a lady does not exist without her mantua-maker. Where he may be indifferent (like the politician, Fox, going to his club in a fouled night-gown), she dares not have a pin misplaced. She is as if blown from glass, made visible by the breath of man and, as the breath fades, vanishing. Imagine a handful of humours: shaped into the loveliest of creatures, evanescent as dreams. Then build a suit of clothing hacked from whalebone and horsehair, of buckram stiffened with stinking fishes; a skin of silk and lace stretched over all and stitched by women too poor to step out doors except at night, shifting along walls like crabbed shadows. Should these genii be noticed, it is by some drunken soldier investigating the quality of their work by flinging up their skirts and looking at the nether side. Yet, when those nonesuchs have made a mansion for us from cloth and splinted bone a cunning -done as their own skins and skeletons- then we go forth, transformed by a beauty believed ours. Those women should be paid their weight in gold, for they form and shape us more than dance masters or mothers. Eve was a seamstress, that wanted Adam’s rib to splint into staybones and fashion herself from.”
Throwback Thursday to @hermadewit explaining to me the intricacies of fashioning -and getting into- a robe à la française a few weeks ago but also to reading Philippa Stockley’s ‘A Factory of Cunning’, a sinister and darkly glittering sequel to ‘Les Liaisons Dangereuses’.
Now, about the ball: it was wonderful. My dress was not completely up to my incessant dancing, leading eventually to a moment when most of my pins had gone missing 😮 Running to the hallway to repin it, I soon discovered I was not the only one with this problem 😁 Despite of all its faults, I do like the way the dress waves about here in this picture.
Apropos of nothing, let’s crunch some numbers!
🔹 How old I am: 29
🔹Time I’ve been a historical costumer: 16 years ish
🔹Average events I’ve been able to attend per year over the last 16 years: 0-1, 2 if it was a good year!
🔹Time I’ve had the ability to attend lots of events per year: 1.5 years
🔹Time I’ve been financially stable enough to afford big trips abroad to attend exciting costume events: Paris was about 6 months ago, so 6 months (I mean I was saving up before that but that’s when it actually happened)
🔹Time I’ve felt like I have any idea what on earth I’m actually doing: I’ll let you know when it happens!
🌟MORAL OF THE STORY🌟 Everything doesn’t happen all at once. If you’re young or new to this hobby, be patient. Make friends, build up your networks, save up your money, and you will eventually get to parties every month and balls in palaces.
🌟OTHER MORAL OF THE STORY🌟 Everyone’s timeline is different. There are people younger than me that have been attending events every month and taking big trips abroad for years. There are people older than me who have only been to one or two events. Our lives each move at their own pace!
🌟REMEMBER🌟 Social media can present a skewed picture of reality. Don’t feel discouraged if your reality doesn’t match other people’s “reality”. Enjoy everyone’s pretty pictures and, if you want to, find ways to make some of your own! All of this is as much of a reminder for me as it is for others. Lots of love!!! 💖💖💖