Whether a visitor or kama'aina (resident), the beauty of the Hawaiian Islands inspires the heart and mind.
Every visit to these islands is a chance for reflection, it forces you to simplify your thinking, be in the moment and reset.
John Webber sailed with Captain Cook to Hawaii on Cook's 3rd Voyage of Discovery. Webber was the official artist, and is credited as being the first artist to illustrate a surfer. If you look REALLY hard at the bottom left of the illustration, you will see a single surfer in between the sailing canoes and outrigger canoes. #surf#history#hawaii#Aloha#trim#trimhawaii#agelesssea#art
"Surf art is as challenging a form of art as surfing itself: both the artist and the surfer must understand the necessary balance between control and spontaneity, technicality and chaos. Eric Maurus, esteemed painter and surfer, has achieved this mastery of balance." Painting by @eric_maurus #hawaii#art#surf#trim#waikiki#diamondhead#trimhawaii#agelesssea
The only thing people can talk about here in Hawaii is The Eddie running tomorrow. Needless to say, everyone is praying it looks like this. This photograph was taken by Steve Russell at the 2nd Eddie. After conferring with the premier surf historian Matt Warshaw @encyclopedia_of_surfing he believes the surfer is Eddie Rothman. Whoever it is, it is an epic angle and shot of Waimea Bay. #eddieaikau#hawaii#waimeabay#surf#trim#trimhawaii#aloha#agelesssea
Filmmaker Jack McCoy @jackmccoyaloha isn't known for his still photography work, but the man has some gems! Jack shared this photo and story in our winter issue, out soon. #winterissue#trim#hawaii
"The entire beach at Pipeline was deserted. Every now and then a wave would come thru at the normal Pipeline take off zone and we’d all hoot at the rare gem in the wild sea. About a half and hour later we noticed a lone sole walking down the beach as he studied the waves intently. Armed with only a pair of Voit Duck Feet, the three of us started to get excited, knowing we might be in for a bit of a show.
He gave us a friendly wave as he walked further down the beach. With not another foot print or soul in sight he sat down, put his fins on and watched the rhythm of the sea for about 20 minutes. After a huge set went thru, he sprinted down to the water, dove in and with his flawless swimming style let the rip take him outside in what seemed like nothing flat.
While all eyes were down the road watching the late afternoon show down at Waimea Bay, Gerry, Tom and I were treated to the antics of a classic waterman duck and dive mountains of white water, bobbing around like a seal at home in his elements. At exactly the precise moment, he’d swim into the perfect spot to connect with one of the rare ridable 10 to 12 ft inside reef waves. Three watermen humbled by being in the right place at the right time to catch the act in real time.
We hooted each and every ride, acknowledging his unique talent, bodysurfing like no one before and no one since." #stoke#Aloha#legends#pipeline#trimhawaii#agelesssea#findyourouterknown
For the longest time, art historians and collectors believed that Lionel Walden had only painted the one piece of surfing art, The Surf Riders. However, it turns out that Walden had in fact created at least one other surf painting during his time in Hawaii. Hawaiian art dealer Douglas Frazer of Frazer Fine Art recounts how Walden’s lost surf painting was discovered. “A few years back I received a phone call from a man in San Diego who was looking for a valuation on his Lionel Walden painting of a surfer on a wave. He described the painting to me, but would not send a photo. The man’s father had bought the painting, probably in a Honolulu antique shop, sometime before World War II. When the father died, the painting was hanging by a nail in his San Diego garage.
After some discussion, it became clear that he was actually looking for a buyer. Having plenty of experience buying and selling other works by Walden, I was able to say some pretty high numbers without even seeing the art. The guy disappeared for about 6 months, but when he reappeared, he was finally ready to sell. Up until this point I had still not even seen a photo of the painting. The man made a deal with my client and I flew to San Diego to inspect, pay for, and collect the painting on my client’s behalf.
When I arrived in San Diego the painting was covered with a very thick layer of grime. A combination of car exhaust, cigarette and cigar smoke, fly-shit and goo. All of this material actually protected the underlying art from other ravages. When we had the painting cleaned, the paint below was in fine shape.” From our feature on painter Lionel Walden in our upcoming winter issue. @trimhawaii 📷 of painting by @mikecoots #surfart#hawaii#walden#print#magazine#trim#aloha#surf#agelesssea
"When the wool swimsuits were wet they absorbed pounds of water which made swimming difficult. The suits also became form-fitting when they were wet, which gave Victorian men (and women) some jollies." from Before Boardshorts by Ben Marcus
Not sure if this is David Kahanamoku or Duke Kahanamoku with the surfboard, but the lady in the passenger seat isn't looking him in the eyes! #aloha#surf#hawaii#waikiki#agelesssea#trim#fallissue#magazine#print#longliveprint
Clarence 'Mac' Maki took his most famous surfing photo on August 24, 1954, a close-up shot of Duke Kahanamoku riding a wave at Canoes on his 64th birthday. “I just came out of the water at the Moana Hotel,” he recalled, “and Duke was just going out surfing. He said, ‘Eh, Maki. You got any more shots?’ I checked my camera, and I told him, ‘I can take two more pictures.’ He said, ‘Would you go out with me? It’s my birthday. I’m 64 years old.’ We paddled out to Canoes, and I sat about 100 feet inside of him. He caught a wave and came straight at me. I took one shot, and I was sure it was perfect. I took my film to the Advertiser, and they used it in the next morning’s paper.” Mac’s photo was the last one ever taken of Duke surfing. Recognized by surfers around the world, that photo has appeared in many books on surfing and is the cover photo of the book Duke of Hawaii by Joe Brennan. - from our #fallissue#duke#surf#hawaii#canoes#dukekahanamoku#waikiki#trim#agelesssea#clarencemaki 📷 by Clarence Maki
'Some of God's people are white, some black, some brown, some yellow. God didn't intend all people to be alike, not even in families. But people were intended to live in harmony, as when the strings of the ukulele blend. There is a tremendous job ahead to bring all people in tune with God. Then they will be in tune with each other.'' - Reverend Abraham Akaka. The brother of former U.S. Senator Daniel Akaka, Reverend Akaka led Kawaiahao Church for 28 years. Akaka also presided over Duke Kahanamoku's funeral service in 1968. 📷 by Clarence 'Mac' Maki #print#fallissue#blackandwhite#surf#hawaii#waikiki#clarencemaki#trimthe7seas#agelesssea
This photo was taken by L.E. Edgeworth sometime between the years 1925 to 1929. Tom Blake had made note in 1924 that the entire surfing population in Honolulu numbered around 100, which would have made this female surfer here at the end of her ride pretty unique. Love the fact that the old Moana Hotel Pier is shown behind her. Photo courtesy of the Hawaii State Archives. #Waikiki#history#hawaii#surf#agelesssea
It's Aloha Friday so head down to Oliver Men's Shop @oliverhawaii in Kailua and grab a hand dipped indigo trim t-shirt, a trim tote bag, and a copy of the fall issue, all for just $48. Supplies are limited! #trim#alohafriday#retailtherapy#hawaii#agelesssea
At the turn of the 19th Century into the 20th, the British empire was still the reigning super-power and wool was one of the cornerstones of the British economy. In Victorian times, women were wheeled to the water’s edge in bathing machines, which were changing rooms on wheels. Men would line the rails of piers with telescopes to get a glimpse of forbidden fruit in that brief transition from bathing machine to water – not that there was much to see. When the wool swimsuits were wet they absorbed pounds of water which made swimming difficult. The suits also became form-fitting when they were wet, which gave Victorian men some jollies.
When the Moana Hotel opened, a room rented for $1.50 a night. The Moana had modern marvels like telephones, en suite bathrooms and Hawaii’s first electric-powered elevator. The real attraction to the Moana was right there in the name though: Moana means “ocean” in Hawaiian, and the surf beckoned. But the ocean and the surf were dangerous to the visitors who weren’t accustomed to the secrets of the sea. This inspired the Beach Boy service: local guys who had an intimate knowledge of the ocean and the waves and the winds and the ways of nature. The Beach Boys protected the tourists that wanted to ride the surf. The Moana Hotel provided surfboards, Beach Boys, modesty changing rooms and also wool bathing costumes for men and women.
From 'Before Boardshorts' by Ben Marcus in our fall issue. Toots @mr._t00ts cross stepping in a wool bathing costume, courtesy of @oliverhawaii #waikiki#history#surf#wool#trim#agelesssea#moana#hawaii
If you have surfed, you will know the meaning of heroism and helplessness, exultation and fear, boundless energy and utter fatigue, the motives and horizon's of the surfer's world. - John M Kelly 📷 by Daniel Russo @_danielrusso_ #hawaii#pipeline#surf#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
He did what he always did on this inside section. He waited for the lip to nearly clock him, and with a matador’s flourish, straightened out. Only this time it did clock him, square on the right side of his head, with brutal force. His face slapped the water. His left ear seemed to tear open, a deafening hum. The power was preternatural; it belonged to Pipeline, Mavericks. The turbulence rag-dolled him, pushed him deeper and deeper. Where was the bottom? Where was the surface? He tumbled and grasped and needed desperately to breathe. He felt himself losing consciousness, saw powdery white light, let go.
Then he broke the surface, gasped for air.
He coughed. Spume blinded and burned. His ear rang. His head swayed. He waved his arms, looked for fellow surfers, but there was no one. He turned around and there was another wave, about to collapse on his head. He lunged for his board, death- gripped the rails, bounced shorewards. Whitewater deposited him on the sand. For a long while he just lay there lifeless. “This feeling is never to be forgotten,” says Westerly. “Peter felt terribly disoriented, his equilibrium was shot, blood was pouring out of his ears, he thought he was dead.” This accident, which left Peter with a concussion and a perforated ear drum, "pretty much fried his brain." Westerly says that there had been many instances where he'd felt like he was in the wrong body, but this loosened something, something irreversible. Peter started staying up into the wee hours, listening to classical music, feeling things shift inside him. One night he watched a documentary about albatrosses. He was transfixed, particularly by the part about the lone albatross out at sea for days, away from its family.
From Jamie Brisick's 'Becoming Westerly - Surf Champion Peter Drouyn's Transformation into Westerly Windina' @jamiebrisick 📷 by Andrew Kidman, the creator of Litmus and Glass Love, two of my favorite surf films. @andrewkidman #getthisbook#print#surf#fallissue#greatbook#hawaii#australia#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
It wasn’t epic Burleigh but it was pretty damn good, especially considering there were only twenty or so guys out. Peter slipped into his rhythm the way he always did. He waited for sets, read the angle and the taper and what he liked to think of as the wave’s visage, and picked the ones that seemed to call out to him. He drew his trademark lines, off the bottom and off the top, vertical bashes in the soft sections, lateral swooping arcs in the zippy bits, power surfing, albeit at a middle-aged tempo.
Surfing at age fifty-two was something he was still trying to work out. Yes, it was humbling; the weaker paddling arms, the slower reflexes, the stuttering cutbacks, the gap between how he dreamed of riding waves and how he actually rode them widening by the year. A single hour in the surf exhausted him, demanded afternoon naps—when did that start? Then there were the young blokes who literally paddled circles around him, flew above the lip. Clearly they had no sense of history.
But there was a chop wood/carry water simplicity to surfing that put things in perspective. He did some of his best thinking in the water. Something about the vastness, the exultant blue, the impregnable horizon. And the afterglow, those little cells and fibers and nerve endings so grateful for their daily fix. His life was a towering, teetering house of cards and at the bottom, wedged just so, was surfing.
Peter caught a slightly overhead wave from way out the back. It went fat as it rounded the cove. He kickstalled at the top, skittered and zagged, dropped to the bottom and swooped. He climbed the gentle crumble of lip, floated over it, then darted off the bottom and across the steepening face. But the wave sectioned fast, too fast. He kicked out over the back.
From 'Becoming Westerly: Surf Champion Peter Drouyn's Transformation into Westerly Windina' by Jamie Brisick @jamiebrisick excerpted in the fall issue of @trimhawaii out now. #surf#greatbook#fallissue#westerlywindina#print#magazine#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#jamiebrisick#peterdrouyn
1901 was a seminal year in both Hawaii and the United Kingdom. The first hotel on Waikiki Beach, the Moana Hotel, had its Grand Opening. That same year, Queen Victoria ended her sixty-three year reign, passing away at the age of 82. Her Majesty Alexandrina Victoria von Wettin, Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and Empress of India was a prude. Her modest hand extended to every facet of the British Empire – and in effect, the civilized world. Queen Victoria dictated and controlled fashion. And the fashion for any kind of bathing, from Roman baths or trips to the ocean, for men and women was wool. Itchy, scratchy wool that soaked up seven times its weight in water. Wool might have been comfortable along the shores of Brighton or Devon in cold England. Yet Queen Victoria’s fashion reign extended even to Hawaii, where noble savages set aside their loincloths and malo, and strapped on the one-piece wool tanksuits – grimacing.
From 'Before Boardshorts' by Ben Marcus. Photo courtesy of Randy Hild's archive @randysurforama Read the article in our fall issue, out Friday. #surf#fashion#wool#waikiki#hawaii#magazine#longliveprint#agelesssea#trimhawaii#trimthe7seas#history#legends
After surfing for seven years, Mac decided he wanted to be a surf photographer. At that time surfing photos were taken by people who stood on the beach or who went into the surf seated in an outrigger canoe, but Mac wanted to try something different. He wanted to be an in-water surf photographer. He had watched several other guys in Waikiki try this new approach, in-water surf photography, where they sat on a surfboard holding a camera. He decided he would try it, too. “The first guy I ever saw with a camera on a board was a Chinese guy,” Mac said. “He had a wooden box to protect it. He’d take a quick picture, put the camera in the box, and slam the lid down when a wave came. He didn’t last too long as a surf photographer. A Chinese-Hawaiian guy named Nip Akona came after him. Nip made a plastic waterproof case for his camera, and he was more successful. About 1950 I decided to try it myself. A friend of mine, Frank Minn, had a plastic company, so I designed a box and asked him to make it. Then I added the attachments to press the shutter and wind the film. I put rubber molding inside the case to make it watertight and four suction cups on the bottom so I could stick the case to my board while I paddled. I started working for Sally Hale who ran the Outrigger Beach Service, taking pictures of beginning surfers, and I found that I loved to take surfing pictures.” from our fall issue, Clarence 'Mac' Maki by John Clark, out next week. #print#magazine#fallissue#surf#photography#beforeGoPro#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#aloha#film
To know Makaha is to know Buffalo. Back in the late forties and early fifties, the North Shore wasn’t the destination for big surf. Makaha was the place where town surfers would go to ride big waves. In the late fifties as a young boy, I remember first venturing to the Makaha International Surfing Championships. At that time, the Makaha contest was the contest. The winner of the Makaha contest was world champion. As a young boy I can remember this handsome Hawaiian riding the waves. I knew right away he was what would now be called a waterman. His name was Buffalo Keaulana. He bodysurfed, he board surfed and he rode the big point waves when they were breaking. Buffalo owned Makaha. 📷 Steve Russell
From our fall issue 'My Friend Buffalo' by Fred Hemmings, out next week. #hawaii#aloha#surf#print#magazine#longliveprint#fredhemmings#makaha#buffalokeaulana#friends#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#stoked#trimhawaii
Clarence Maki's legendary photograph of Buffalo Keaulana graces the cover of our fall issue, out next week. John Clark, the author of Hawaiian Surfing, writes about his late friend Clarence 'Mac' Maki. 1968 World Champion Fred Hemmings tells stories about his friend Buffalo Keaulana. Ben Marcus goes into the history of the wool tanksuit. We excerpt Jamie Brisick's fantastic new book 'Becoming Westerly'. And featuring photography from Daniel Russo. @_danielrusso_ @jamiebrisick @surfingheritage @surf_garage @honolulumuseum @morningglasscoffee @pukapukamaui @alohaexchange #magazine#print#blackandwhite#surf#hawaii#longliveprint#trim#trimhawaii#agelesssea#trimthe7seas
As a young boy I remember a rugged looking Hawaiian named “Buffalo” riding the waves. He bodysurfed, he board surfed and he rode the point waves when they were big enough to break. Buffalo Keaulana was also a superb spear fisherman and diver—he owned Makaha. In 1965, Hawai’i surfing leaders, led by the most respected Wally Froiseth, selected a team to go to the inaugural World Surfing Championship in Peru. Buffalo and I were teammates. We shared a room in an old hotel named Leuror, located in a sleepy neighborhood on the coast of Lima called Miraflores. The contest was held at large surf in Punta Rocas. The wave at Punta Rocas is a point surf on the edge of Punta Hermosa Bay down the coast from Lima. It’s a large peak that forms into a hot right slide much like Sunset Beach, and there are long gentler lefts that peel into the bay. During the competition, Buffalo caught a very large wave. He rode the left slide all the way around the side of the point into the bay, where the judges couldn’t even see him. Laughingly, I asked him later, “Eh, how come you rode all the way into the bay? The judges couldn’t see you.” Buffalo responded, “It was a good wave.” It was a simple answer that explained his priorities. - Fred Hemmings "My Friend Buffalo" 📷 by Dick Metz courtesy of SHACC @surfingheritage #trim#surf#buffalokeaulana#fredhemmings#legends#makaha#hawaii#film#blackandwhite#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#alohasunday
Clarence 'Mac' Maki was born in 1924 in Kilauea on Kauai, where his dad worked for the sugar plantation. Both of his parents were issei from Kumamoto prefecture, his father having arriving first, followed by his mother, a picture bride. His parents passed away while he was in his early teens, so he moved to Honolulu in 1939 to live with an older sister. I asked him if he learned to surf on Kauai, but he said that he never surfed until he came to Oahu. “I started in 1943,” he told me. “I don’t know what made me want to go surfing, but I had a boat builder at Kewalo Basin make me a 12’ hollow board. I took it to Waikiki, paddled out to Canoes, and just watched what the other surfers were doing.” Mac didn’t know it then, but he was among the first Japanese surfers in Hawaii. While first generation issei parents were too busy working to support their families, their second-generation nisei children, like Mac, had time to go to the beach. They were probably some of the first Asian surfers in the world. - John Clark #fallissue#agelesssea#trimthe7seas#hawaii#surf 📷 by Clarence Maki
Although Clarence 'Mac' Maki wasn’t the first in-water surf photographer in Hawaii, he was the first of Japanese ancestry and certainly one of the most successful. For 55 years he photographed tourists, beachboys, celebrities, family, friends, and everyone he taught how to surf. As he continued to develop his own photos, he developed a style of cropping that is still unique today. Mac enlarged his photos and turned them into close-ups. His prints invariably showcase the surfer in the shot, often to the exclusion of almost everything else in the background. He cropped his photos to highlight the person and the range of emotions that surfing generates. - John Clark #fallissue#magazine#blackandwhite#film#clarencemaki#nofilter#aloha#canoes or #bowls#waikiki#surf#hawaii#agelesssea#longliveprint#trimthe7seas
Thank you to everyone that came out on Sunday night for the showing of SURF TOWN at the @honolulumuseum Todd @pinderhi and myself are very grateful for the support and aloha! @onetoots @karubekyosuke @kkandmc #agelesssea#hawaii#surf#trimthe7seas
Did we mention that we will be doing a Lucky Number Draw for the Surf Town surfboard at the July 19th premiere? $5 for one ticket, $20 for 6 tickets. Who is feeling lucky to win a one of a kind Todd Pinder surfboard? Proceeds are being donated to @honolulumuseum Soundshop Music Program. @pinderhi @onetoots #surfboard#hawaii#surftown#aloha#agelesssea#trimthe7seas